Tie Rod End Replacement
Each front wheel is steered by a tie rod, which ends in a small ball joint called the tie rod end. When it wears, the steering gets loose and the wheel can wobble. Replacing it is a short job, but only if the alignment is set afterwards.
From AED 199per sideWritten quote after diagnosis, before work startsConvenience fee applicable · shown on your written quote
- 1-2 hours per side, plus the alignment
- Pickup and delivery from your door
- Convenience fee applicable · shown on your written quote
- Diagnosis free with repair
Signs you need tie rod end replacement
- A clunk or tapping from the front when you turn the wheel
- Steering that feels loose, with free play near straight ahead
- Wheel shimmy at certain speeds that fades at others
- Tyre wear on the inner or outer edge of a front tyre
- The steering wheel off-centre when the car is going straight
- A torn rubber boot with grease thrown around it
What usually causes it
Worn ball joint inside the end
The ball inside the end slowly loosens in its socket. Free play there changes the toe of the wheel as you drive, making the steering vague and wearing the tyre quickly.
Torn dust boot
The rubber boot holds the grease in. Once it splits, grease escapes and grit enters, and a joint that would last years may need replacing within months.
Impact or kerb damage
A hard knock can bend the rod, damage the thread or loosen the joint. A bent tie rod makes the wheel point slightly off, and the alignment cannot be set within its limits.
Worn inner tie rod
The inner end sits inside the rubber boot at the steering rack. It can also wear, producing the same clunk, so we check both ends and distinguish between them before ordering parts.
How we do tie rod end replacement
- 1
Check for play
With the wheel raised, we grip the tyre at three and nine o'clock and rock it while watching the joint. Any movement at the end that is not the wheel bearing means the tie rod end has gone.
- 2
Mark and remove
We record the position of the end on the thread so the new one can be set to the same length, then separate the joint from the steering arm. A stuck joint is released with a puller rather than hammered.
- 3
Fit the new end
The new end is threaded to the marked position, the nut is tightened to specification and a new locking pin or nylon nut is used where the design needs one. The boot is checked for tears.
- 4
Set the alignment
The marked position only gets the toe close. A proper alignment on the machine sets it accurately, corrects the steering wheel position and protects the tyres. We then road test the car.
In Dubai, Sharjah and Ajman
Speed bumps taken a little fast and kerbs at tight parking spots hammer the steering linkage, and grit from desert roads gets into boots that have started to crack in the heat. Tyre wear on the inside edge after only a few thousand kilometres is a common sign of a loose end here.
Questions about tie rod end replacement
Can I replace the tie rod end without an alignment?
You can, but it is not worth it. Even a careful replacement changes the toe setting, and a few millimetres of error wears the tyre edge badly within weeks. The alignment is part of doing the job well.
Should I change both tie rod ends?
Only when both are worn. They are different parts and can wear at different rates. We check both sides and replace each one on its own measurement.
How do I know it is the tie rod end and not a ball joint?
Rocking the wheel horizontally loads the tie rod, and rocking it vertically loads the ball joint and bearing. Play in one direction and not the other tells us which part is worn.
What happens if it breaks?
The wheel can steer itself away from the straight line, and you lose control of that wheel. It is rare, but a loose tie rod end should not be put off for long.
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